South Africa

…and in SA? 

The South African fashion industry, including all its different sectors (manufacturing, retail, media and recruitment sectors), is the fifth largest employment sector in country today. Combined, the industry and its affiliates generate an annual income of several billion South African rand. Many South African designers have gained international recognition for their work, and are currently employed at some of the world’s most acclaimed design houses. Such designers include Marc Bouwer, Darryl Jagga and Kara Janx.

Marc Bouwer was born and educated in South Africa, but after winning the Vogue Young Designer’s Award, the locally bred and talented Bouwer moved to New York City where he became an apprentice to Roy Halston Frowick. Frowick immediately perceived Bouwer’s potential when viewing the designer’s portfolio, and promptly offered him a job. Under Frowick, Bouwer perfected the art of drapery: as a consequence of an early, formative fascination with the Hollywood glamour of the mid-twentieth century, Bouwer’s designs are contemporary interpretations of an iconic era. His drapes express the simplicity of form and unapologetic, if unforced, sensuality of curve hugging gowns. When these formal considerations are combined with his philosophy with regards to the use of progressive, non-animal product materials, Bouwer can be seen to have pioneered the “bathing suit gown” dubbed “athletic glamour” by industry experts and purveyors. Bouwer’s contribution to humane-practice orientated fashion has garnered awards and sponsorships from PETA and the United States Humane Society. In addition to Bouwer’s couture being worn by celebrities (including: Angelina Jolie, Charlize Theron, Emily Blunt, Beyoncé Knowles, Eva Longoria, Faith Hill, Ivanka Trump and Heidi Klum), his designs have adorned the front covers of notable magazines, including: Harper’s Bazaar, Oprah, Cosmopolitan, Instyle, Vanity Fair and Glamour.

Darryl Jagga, like Bouwer, was born and educated in South Africa, but moved to New York to work in a city renowned as one of the four fashion capitals of the world. Jagga continued his fashion education in New York at FIT, and has, over the past twenty years, built up an enormous store of experience that contributes to his continual production of quality designs. He has worked as a designer at brands like Victor Costa, Calvin Klein, Castle Starr and Chaiken, and as a senior designer at Apparel Holdings Group. Jagga has had the further privilege of working all over the world in cities like Paris, London, Hong Kong and London. His deep understanding and thorough knowledge about European aesthetics and garment technology is fully exploited in his designs which link the contemporary with the culturally iconic styles of the past.

Kara Janx garnered much exposure through her participation on the series, Project Runway. The premise of the show is well known, and deserves little mention here. Janx managed, to her enormous credit, to make the final four designers, and as such, had the opportunity to display some works at the New York fashion week. As a consequence of the show (a reality series which I view as being somewhat exploitative), Janx’s career has sky rocketed: the designer has had the opportunity to dress Julia Roberts, Rihanna and Emma Watson. As a graduate of Architectural studies, Janx is well known for her use and combinations of colour, understanding of the female figure, and, more recently, her exquisite bridal collection. Kudos further goes to Janx for her recent International Sportswear Designer Award, and her recall to the Project Runway franchise – Janx will be appearing in the 2012 All Stars edition.

The country also has a wealth of talent that showcases itself at the Cape Town and Johannesburg fashion weeks. The 2011 Johannesburg fashion week showcased the autumn/winter collections for 2012, and generated much journalistic review and commentary. The week displayed lines by both, established local designers as well as by top student designers. With regards to the latter, Foschini sponsored the “Fastrack” day at the Jo’burg fashion week, giving students exposure to the world of professional design, and exposing the public to future local talent. On the whole, designers gained critical approval for their bold designs and colourful garments, and for the independent spirit that made itself visible in their approach to creating a contemporary, uniquely South African fashion idiom.

Crucial to the continent-wide and international success of the South African fashion industry is the World Wide Web. The internet allows for a selling platform that has the ability to bridge the gap between local designers and fashionistas in Africa, Eurasia and the Americas. Vital to the expansion of the local industry is the ability to: purchase locally designed clothing online; buy shoes online; order accessories; and buy perfume online.